Deconstructing the Sphinx of FashionThe Life and Creations of Madame Alix GresClad in drapes and flux stuff , with enough hutzpah to sport a turbanthat had become her tinge , Madame Gres had ceaselessly been an impersonation of way and art . With a stellar list of clients and m social occasions , from dread royals such as Princess Grace of Monaco , Princess Matilda of Greece , the Duchess of Windsor and the Duchess of Deterling , among others to film celebrities and then-socialites Marlene Dietrich , Jacque filiation Kennedy-Onassis , Barbra Streisand , and Greta Garbo . much(prenominal) was her br presence and inimit adapted flair that some would purify , unwittingly , that she was more Garbo than Garbo herself ( HYPERLINK hypertext transfer communications protocol / web .parfumsgres .com network .parfumsgres .com . Full of petulance and flair , and shrouded with mysteryEven her possess was mysterious . many an(prenominal) documented sources shew that she was born to a bourgeois family , a fact that was tho established after galore(postnominal) forms . Her birth on November 30 , 1903 gave her the appoint Ger master(prenominal)e Emilie Krebs , hardly angiotensin-converting enzyme suitable for a would-be legendary expressive style precedent . To keep diachronic cyphers of her personal invigoration consistently vague , not such(prenominal) is know abtaboo her early days - until she rasetidetu alvirtuosoy launched her vogue cargoner some psyche of conviction after the W wholly Street dump in 1930 , an unfortunate term to do so as the merchandise was no overnight viable for luxury products . or so reports wee it that she started as a sculptor , but was never rather successful at it - making her decide to commute career paths (Mendoza . It is in wish well appearance said that she soon distribut! eed a couture manse under the prepare Alix , yet others sop up mentioned that she was merely but an employee of a small- m couturier named Julie Barton and , that succession was adjudged to be the best for a charr to be on the job(p) in mold , since the roughly well- cognise names - Lanvin , Vionnet and Chanel - do themselves known during the period ( HYPERLINK hypertext transfer protocol /network .telegraph .co .uk web .telegraph .co .ukShe by and by married the Russian painter Serge Czerefkov , and apply the anagram of his name as hers , exactly the way he would sign his artistic creation But the marriage laster uncommon for a year or less , for Czerefkov traveled all the way from France to Polynesia , and never re reached . Alix Gres , as Germaine Emilie Krebs then called herself , uncollectible on and indulged herself in the one affectionateness that would etch her name in history - fabrics and fashionTaking inspiration from one of her determination model s , Madeleine Vionnet (Chang , 2005 , the Hellenic silhouette was what art and fashion historians would assume to the Gres name . Madame Gres viewed the clothe she gived as works of art , and make a manner of construction and behavior that is uniquely hers - draping . This proficiency as conflicting to tailoring , entailed sculpting yards of fabric directly onto the bodies of her models . producing her acclaimed signature , the flow jersey dressGres distinct style emulated the perfect classical dress , which called for what is known as wet-drapery - the manner of fabric torque through lively folds , that ultimately reveals the shape and contour of the human body (Koda , 200- . all the way , it is Gres endorseground in sculpture that bendd her cream of couture , that as well brought her to use other like fabrics such as chiffon and crepe . Her lines were forever and a day simple and clean , yet alone feminine and fair . Drama was her goal , and unlike most designers in the forties and 50s , Madame Gres neve! r relied on structure and hard support to create her silhouettes no matter how much complexness and angular shapes were in fashion at the eon . She in addition used enceinte fabric and taffeta to achieve her signature flowing designs , which achieved more usurpation than expected considering its basic construction . The dresses and gowns of Madame Gres were always lauded for their almost-opposing characteristics of being sempiternal and modern at the alike(p) time , yet in uprightness , they were innovative and evolved constantlyDuring the 1940s , in the aftermath of world War II , many restrictions were ready in lay and Madame Gres classic Grecian fashions could no longer be produced as often and as much as she used to . Because of this , she cerebrate on perfecting another technique called flute glass , which is a detailed , highly-concentrated version of the regular pleating and so , when fabric became widely available once more , Madame Gres slow corporate thi s new standard of workmanship into her classic Greek-inspired creationsIn 1958 , Madame Gres went on a journey to India , where she discovered another significant influence on her art . It was here that she took a liking for the inelegant s native-born saris and caftans , which she rightly surmised would perfectly blend with her already-established smooth flowing style . Fashion journals all over the world attestcased Gres new collections that include pajama pants , which she wisely combined with the trends at the time - even with miniskirts and the ubiquitous hot pant (The Museum at tog . It was also during this trip that Madame Gres took inspiration for a perfume line she named Cabochard , quite apt for the launch of her new club called Parfums GresThe seventies and 80s proved to be Madame Gres most memorable years , for at this time she was offered numerous titles and recognition . In 1974 she became President of La Chambre Syndicale de la Couture capital of Francei enne as well as recipient of the De d Or de la Haute ! Couture .. Later , in 1980 , Madame Gres was named The most elegant woman in the world and , for her unmatched contribution to French refinement , she was condition the honor of being a Chevalier de la boniface d Honneur . Also , while she constantly refused to compass into pret-a-porter , it was during the same year that she launched Gres Boutique - her first collectionHer colleagues also hold with all the accolades given her particularly her sense of design and classic style . The usual designer Bill Blass was asked for his opinion , on the avowal that fashion is an art . He said no , it is a craft , unless it is done by Balenciaga or Madame Gres . For set ahead validation of the woman s endowments , 1988 s way bill of 20th ascorbic acid Fashion named her the greatest living couturier ( HYPERLINK hypertext transfer protocol /network .parfumsgres .com www .parfumsgres .comBut not everything in Madame Gres life was as primary and flowing as the dresses she des igned , or the far-famed couture house that was at par with the world s best (Cocks , 1986 . bid many successful celebrities , she had her own share of negative promotional material and evil tales . Stories have been told skillful rough her indifference to the past and the accomplishments she make , even as she would travel the world just t open numerous boutiques to her name . While the legendary Vogue editor Diana Vreeland , would comment that Madame Gres had the best address in Paris (Trow , 1980 , Gres was also compared to Carmel Snow , longtime editor of Harper s fair , on their both being self-centered and uninterested in null but themselves (Horyn , 2005But what was most disturbing and mysterious about Madame Gres life is her death in 1993 . For over a year , her notwithstanding daughter Ann kept the fact hidden from fashion journalists and her fuss s colleagues . Ann would even respond to queries sent about Madame Gres , indicating her pose s cargo hold of the gestures , as evidenced by the time when Yves Sai! nt Laurent gave collect praise to the Gres prospective of the Metropolitan Museum of postiche . Ann sent back a note detailing how Madame Gres was greatly touched and thankful , even including a personal account of her induce s petty(a) beginnings , told in an uncomfortably personal tone In truth , Madame Gres was already whiling away her remaining days at a nursing home in the South of France . She was believed to have been either 89 or 94 years oldThe fashion ball club in Paris were all at sea by this treat of events which they were completely uninformed about .
She keep to hold the localisation of ho norary president of the Chambre Syndicale , because no one knew of her her demise . apparently , correspondence was sent regularly to Ann Gres , which she refused to answerAnn Gres was unappeasable about charge her female parent s death a mystery . She believed that was how Madame Gres would have cherished things to be - mysterious and secretive . She expose , though , that their family was in dire need of funds and other resources , that she had not been able to even afford a powerful tombstone beseem her legendary mother . Ann also lambasted her mother s so-called friends , whom she stated to have never even inquired about Madame Gres conditionSadly , this was how things turned out for the once-prosperous fashion icon . Her business , with debts and failures raise , was sold to Bernard Tapie , an American businessman . After two years , the French congregation Estorel took over the company , only to go bankrupt in 1987 Eventually , a Japanese investment funds gro up called yagi bought the Madame Gres name for 2 mill! ion in 1988 , but the geld did not include royalty payments for the designer (Deeney , 1994The same raft happened to her perfume company , which was acquired by Lamotte Taurelle , a distribution company , that later sold it to a pay company subsdiary . The licenses were soon purchased by The Escada Group , which in turn sold in 2001 to Silvio Denz ( HYPERLINK hypertext transfer protocol /www .parfumsgres .com www .parfumsgres .comTo this day , much of Madame Gres influences animated on , and her existing pieces are now proverbial treasures . Auctions of her creations argument the highest prices , as they are sure showcases of a woman s long passion for the art of fashion . Draping is a skill many of today s young designers accentuate to emulate , an example of which is a noted finalist in placate Four of Project railing , a hugely popular American reality show documenting the challenges of over a cardinal young designers . Rami Kashou , who won scrap place , is k nown for his talent in draping - which may credibly tell of his knowledge of Madame Gres legacyIt is just , however , completely impressive how many accounts and stories lead to the finis that Madame Gres and her incredible talent would be the source of envy of her only child . Though , as they say , Ann Gres despised her mother for that known factBut it is correct to say that Madame Gres has carved her name and design philosophy into the annals of global fashion . And just like her ethereal creations that had been consistently preposterous and distinct , the life of Madame Alix Gres , or Germaine Emilie Krebs , will always be mysterious and legendary exercises CitedCocks , Jay . An beauteous Legacy Comes Alive . Time powder magazine , February 3 , 1986Trow , George W . S . The Talk of the Town . Work . The bare-assed YorkerSeptember 29 , 1980Horyn , Cathy . Before There Was Vreeland . The New York clock celestial latitude 4 , 2005Deeney , Godfrey . The Strang e , Secret Death of Madame Gres . Women s stomach D! ailyDecember 14 , 1994Koda , Harold . Classical maneuver and Modern Dress . Timeline of imposture History . New YorkMetropolitan Museum of Art , 200-The get up Institute . prink in the Metropolitan Museum of Art Timeline of ArtHistory . New York : Metropolitan Museum of Art , 200-Alix Gres : An Exceptional CouturierHYPERLINK http /www .telegraph .co .uk /fashion /main .jhtml ?xml /fashion /2008 /02 /17 /s t_ http /www .telegraph .co .uk /fashion /main .jhtml ?xml /fashion /2008 /02 /17 /st _madamegres .xmlBiography . HYPERLINK http /www .parfumsgres .com /biography .html http /www .parfumsgres .com /biography .htmlChang , Lia . Cut and device : The Foundations of Fashion , 2005HYPERLINK http /www .asianconnections .com /a ?article_id 594 http /www .asianconnections .com /a ?article_id 594Mendoza , Sandra . Alix Gres (1903-1993HYPERLINK http /www .vintagefashionguild .org / pith /view /664 /111 http /www .vintagefashionguild .org /content /view /664 /111The Museum at Fit . The Life and Career of Madame GresHYPERLINK http /www3 .fitnyc .edu /museum /gres /lifeandcareer .htm http /www3 .fitnyc .edu /museum /gres /lifeandcareer .htm p...If you want to get a full essay, order it on our website:
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